Saturday, April 4, 2026

When Bombay welcomed its First Steam Locomotive

 The First Passenger train in India ran from Bombay's Bori Bunder to Tannah on the date now etched in history: 16 April 1853. On that momentous occasion, three locomotives hauled a 14 carriage train, carrying around 400 passengers for the inaugural run. It took the train around 55 minutes to cover the entire 21 mile (34 km) stretch of the first line. 

The locomotives, like most of the era, were imported from England, and were among the batch of eight locomotives ordered from Vulcan Foundry Ltd, the first few of which arrived in September 1852. These are an interesting subject per se, but today we delve even deeper into past- to unravel the story of the first locomotive that Bombay witnessed.

It was the 31st of October, 1850. On this day the sod turning ceremony (similar to a Bhoomipujan) of the upcoming railway line was conducted at Sion, by the Chief secretary of Bombay government, John Willoughby.  This marked the beginning of work on the line, a ceremonial start. The contractors for the stretch to Tannah were Messrs. Faviel and Fowler. For the labour, they employed nearly 10,000 workers from Bombay and the neighboring regions. Since it was a long route, conveyance of the materials needed to create a bed, and lay a line would indeed have been difficult. Therefore, in order to make operations more efficient, the contractors decided to import a locomotive from Britain. 

Said to be manufacture of the E. B. Wilson Foundry, this locomotive engine arrived at the shores of Bombay on the evening of 6th February 1852, at the wood yard of Mazagaon. It was named 'Lord Falkland' in honour of Bombay's then Governor, Lucius Cary, the 10th Viscount of Falkland. It was a tank engine, (as opposed to the more well known Tender engine), carrying its boiler, fuel and water all on the same frame. Its base comprised of four wheels coupled to the cranked driving shaft, placed in the centre. 

To transport the new machine to its shed at Byculla, (opposite the Native Education Society's Press, close to today's Ollivant Bridge), it was dragged on a public road by 200 coolies, and it was then that the people of Bombay had the opportunity to gaze at the immensity of the locomotive engine, a kind they had never seen before. The natives began to call it the 'Agni Ruth' (the Fire Chariot') or the erroneous 'Aag Boat', which actually translated to a steamship, rather than a locomotive. 

The locomotive had its first run on the Monday of 23rd February. As it stood outside its shed smoking and hissing, the sight attracted a crowd of not more than a dozen Europeans, it, however managed to bring in a crowd of thousands of native Indians. They gazed with wonder and awe, as it got ready for its first run. It glided to its starting point soon after 7 a.m., and after a short delay, shrouded in smoke, it began its trip. The crowd hailed a 'Shabash' as the engine whistled and let off a cloud of spray of the crowd. Starting at a walking pace, it slowly sped up, reaching 15 mph (24 kmph). The crowd ran along, pressing it on all sides. It then travelled up to Parel (then the seat of the governor), a distance of 2 miles. The locomotive was boarded by around seven to eight gentlemen, among them those from the Civil Service. After stopping for a while at Parel, it returned to its starting point at 15 mph, greeted again by that admiration and clapping from the assembled crowd. A second trip similar to the first was performed, this time a lady being among the passengers. On either trips there were slight stoppages to correct small matters; however the locomotive was found to be in perfect mechanical order.

On that very day, the locomotive was put to work, to transport material for the railroad. It traveled daily from Byculla to Parel, drawing great crowds eager to observe the operations. However, the observers were not met with a kind response from the loco engineers and their accomplices, perhaps because they ventured a bit too close to the tracks. A correspondent of the Bombay Gazette who witnessed the operations in the evening complained how the Engineer and his fellow mates threw billets of firewood and hot water on those assembled when the engine returned to the shed by night. He pointed out the lack of difficulty on the part of the engineer to return the compliment of the crowd.

The crowds refused to diminish, so did their enthusiasm. The crowd culture led to all sorts of unexpected things, of both business and crime.

In Mid March, a man was convicted of attempting to pickpocket a Head Clerk of Post Office, when the latter had become one in the crowd to view the engine operating over the Byculla flats. He felt someone put a hand in his pocket, to draw out a silk handkerchief containing 26 Rupees (a princely amount back then!) He caught the pickpocket in the act of handing the theft over to another man. The jury found the prisoner guilty, and sentenced him to imprisonment with a month of hard labour.

On the other hand, a few enterprising individuals decided to take advantage of the situation in another way. Noticing that people would spend hours watching the operations, they set up booths selling basic comforts like toddy juice and cakes. Over the time, certain natives even made offers to the contractor to charter wagons by the month!

By Mid-April the locomotive was on its task transporting ballast along the line. Thousands would assemble to watch the engine pull twelve ballast filled wagons up a steep incline. To ensure safety of the crowd that came too close, twelve men with sticks, headed by an European, were constantly employed to keep check, and avoid interference. By July, the engine was actively at work, carrying ballast excavated at Sion, along the line, to wherever it was required ahead. 

It was November 1852. Around this time, a single railway line had already been laid all the way to Tannah, with the second line in rapid progress. With the works nearing completion, the contractor organised an inspection special journey, a sort of a trial run from Bombay to Tannah, before the official opening next year. As the engines and passenger carriages (that had first arrived in September) were still in the process of commissioning, the contractor provided th only available engine, Lord Falkland to haul the train, primarily composed of temporarily fitted trucks (similar to wagons). To add to the appeal, the passenger wagon was covered with awnings and curtains, and decorated with evergreens, branches of mango, palm, etc.  The tracks had not yet been laid upto the site of the Bori Bunder terminus, and stopped near the Sepoy Lines, the base of the Native Infantry. The journey was to begin from here. As for the destination, it was the Tunnel no. 1 at the base of Parseek hill.

The news about the planned excursion was not very covert. As such, a large crowd assembled as early as 11:30 a.m. A while later several carriages pulled up opposite the Sepoy lines (today's Masjid Bunder) from which emerged the invitees, dressed in holiday attire. The locomotive arrived soon after, welcomed by shouts of admiration and astonishment from the native crowd. Then the passengers boarded their wagon. Some notable invitees were Major Swanston, a director of the railway, Dr Buist (editor of The Bombay Times, later renamed as The Times of India), and Sri Jagannath Shankarseth, the merchant and philanthropist. 

Route of the line, around 1854

The journey began at 12:04 pm, to a momentous start. Soon after, it chugged along the then sea shore, ran along the Nowrojee hill, and passed under the Mazgaon viaduct, which was filled with spectators, eager to witness the historic moment. It then passed Byculla, following which it covered a straight stretch and a while later, reached Sion. Passing by a fort and a church at Sion, it crossed the Sion marsh, and entered the island of Salsette. Passing several salt pans along, it navigated a wooden ridge (around today's Kurla) after which it halted for a few minutes to take in water for the Locomotive. The nine miles (14 km) until then were crossed in 18 minutes, and the speed at a moment was above 80 kmph. For the next 14 miles (22 km) it ran across a flat route, with a spectacle of beautiful scenery, consisting of richly cultivated fields, hamlets and cottages, and the Western Ghats at a distance. It then reached Tannah, and after completing the entirety of journey that lasted 45 minutes, stopped at the Tannah Viaduct, which was not yet complete. 

As the lunch was to be held on the other side of the river near the Parseek point, the passengers were transported across, by boats. On the other shore, they boarded horse drawn trucks, to cover the remaining distance until the hill tunnel. The tunnel was not yet finished, and the party had to cross the tunnel on foot. On the further end of the tunnel, they sat down, and were treated with a good lunch. There, toasts were raised to the success of the railway. 

After the events of the day were concluded, the party got up, and left for Bombay, alighting near the Byculla viaduct around the time of evening. These special few had witnessed an experience, unlike anything they ever had: the railway journey. Their little excursion had been a direct forerunner to the forthcoming inauguration of the railway, next year. It was only fitting that this historic journey was conducted by the city's first steam locomotive.

What happened next is difficult to unravel, however it has been suggested that even after regular railway operations began in April 53', Lord Falkland continued to serve on the line, perhaps as the locomotive no.1 of the GIPR, that records don't clarify about. If it indeed was this very locomotive that was serialised as the No.1, we know that it was sold later on to the BB&CIR (today's Western Railway) when it too began operations in the city in the 1860s. And after that, it was lost to history, it's whereabouts uncertain. 

Regardless, the Locomotive was a necessary first, a kick start if you will, to support the construction and the early operations, and build public confidence on the novel undertaking. It may not have been as popular as the first three locomotives that hauled that first train to Tannah, but it for sure was the one that helped make that feat possible!


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Monday, January 12, 2026

A Tribute to the Great Bassein Bridges

 Between Bhayandar and Naigaon, every train has to pass over a wide body of water, the Vasai Creek. While crossing the creek, two rail bridges, serve as the transition between the mainland and the city; all the trains, outstation or local, pass over these bridges in order to enter or exit from this side of the island. For a fellow passenger, this offers a welcome change. As the train crosses, one is greeted by the vast sea, spread until far on one side, and curving away along the island's edges on the other. Soon after entering, you spot little islands laden with mangroves, scattered higher and thither, and a while later the intervening Panju island fools you into thinking: "the sea has been crossed". The train passes over, surrounded by vegetation on either side, on this island shaped rather curiously like a teardrop. After this crossing, the train passes over the sea again, this time for a shorter duration, before finally entering the mainland.

If you catch a Vasai Local, the train usually passes over the west side bridge, and you get a better view of the west. You wouldn't see any mangrove islands, but instead see a small bridge, standing alone with nothing in the background but the sea and the sky. This bridge wasn't used, except perhaps by some inhabitants of Panju, who would cross it to reach the mainland, or the city. But in its days of glory, it was the only rail access to Mumbai from the western side, and it maintained that honour for 6 decades.


The South Bassein Bridge


These were the Bassein Bridges, built by the erstwhile Bombay Baroda and Central India Railway (which later became the WR) in the 1920s. This was then the longest overall bridge system on the entire BB&CI network. After Independence, they became the bridges of the WR, who operated them for another 30 years. In order to better understand the significance, let's learn about their curious tale.

Back to the 1850s, when the line from Ahmedabad to Bombay was being planned. To the planners, the last major obstacle before entering the island was the Bassein (Vasai) Creek. This creek was a tidal one, whose highest and lowest tides differed by 15 ft. It would be a major undertaking to bridge the two shores. Fortunately, the creek was divided into two by the Panju island, and a bridge could therefore be constructed in two seperate portions, north and south of the island. 

Construction probably began at the end of the 1850s, and these first bridges were opened to traffic in 1864, the same year Bombay-Ahmedabad railway services commenced from Grant Rd. It then stood among the longest sea bridges in India.

These bridges served well in those early years, enabling the conveyance of both passengers and goods (such as cotton) between Ahmedabad and the port city of Bombay. While local and outstation traffic steadily grew, the bridges stood as silent witnesses to the incoming developments. They stood as the backbone of the railway services from Bombay, to all of the Western India north of it.

As the years passed, the backbone weakened. The girders and the foundations were found to be too weak to bear the increasing loads of higher traffic, and between 1896 and 1902, it was felt necessary to strengthen the bridges. The Warren Girders were replaced by fish bellied plate ones, while the foundations themselves were strengthened by the addition of screw piles on the west and east. Besides, a continuous girder was installed over the five piles. 

15 Down passing over the Old South Bassein Bridge 
 All Due Credits: Western Railway

This too could not prove sufficient. In fact, during the early proposals of railway electrification, when the Bombay Government appointed C.H. Merz (who was instrumental in the electrification of London Underground in the 1890s) as a consultant on the proposals, one of his only suggestions before his eventual resignation was the replacement of the Bassein Bridges. 

While investigations began for the replacements, speed limits were imposed on local and outstation traffic: 15 mph for locals, 8 mph for the latter. 

15 Down crossing South Bassein bridge at 8 mph
BB&CI Magazine, August 1923.
All Due Credits: Western Railway 

The new bridges were constructed 120 ft east of the old ones. While they were to have the same number and length of spans as the old bridges, they were built up to the BB&CI standard loading of 1916. The Panju Island once again proved itself, serving as a base of operations, where the main stacking yards, powerhouse, stores etc were situated. While preliminary works were commenced in 1920, preparatory work were not started until 1923. To add to it, non delivery of electrical and other plants further delayed the project, pushing the completion date upto 1927. 

Pile Screwing Test on Panju Island of
11 September 1923
BB&CI Magazine
All Due Credits: Western Railway

Well, years went on, and the bridges served their utility. The new bridges saw the transition from Steam to Electric in 1936, when the Borivali-Virar line was first electrified. Iconic images exist of equally iconic trains like the Bombay-Surat Flying Ranee, and the Bombay-Peshawar Frontier Mail, chugging along the bridge, pulled by large locomotives engraved with plaques of the service they served.

After Independence, in 1951, the BB&CIR and several other railways were merged to form the Western Railway. Newer suburban rakes now appeared, so did newer services. And the bridges quietly supported all that. However as the decades passed, it was time for a final replacement. Two new bridges were constructed east of the former bridge in 1983, each with two lines. These continue to serve even today.

The bridge was abandoned and left to rust. Villagers from Panju used it to make their crossings out of their home island. But it stood there, contemplating its history and now, its purpose.

Eventually the railways decided to scrap the bridges for iron. Work began on dismantling the northern bridge in November 2020. The South Bridge remained untouched until late 2025, when it too met that fate.

The ancient bridges were always a favourite spectacle of mine. During every crossing of the creek, regardless of how crowded the local turned out, I'd always try to find a gap to just have a gaze. I had the fortune of watching the bridge up close, while on a Vasai Local, while it was still there. Those memories are etched in my mind forever.

But now when I will pass the creeks, I won't see those iron spans shining in the afternoon sun, or forming a silhouette in the evening sun. For, only the pillars remain, which too would be claimed in the coming future.

The Silhouette

The sacrifice won't be in vain though. Adjacent to the route of the old bridge, a new bridge is being constructed, as a part of line expansion efforts. These will increase the carrying capacity of the section, enabling more services, and more efficiency.


This turns out to be another case of the observation, 'past fades away for future'. Now there wouldn't be a lone bridge standing in the sea, to draw the attention of curious travellers, who might have wondered about its origins. The bridge now exists only as a mention in historic documents, news websites and blog posts, and in scrapyards and in preserved plaques. But more than anything, it remains and will remain, as a tale of new beginnings, a study of the ever dynamic nature of needs, and above all resilience to confront every situation.


It may not stay in its sea forever, but it will always stay in my heart as the Great Bassein Bridge.

Adieu!


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When Bombay welcomed its First Steam Locomotive

 The First Passenger train in India ran from Bombay's Bori Bunder to Tannah on the date now etched in history: 16 April 1853. On that mo...