Sunday, January 28, 2024

125 Years of Churchgate's Headquarter Office

The Western Railway Headquarter Building
at Churchgate
Celebratory Decorations

 I read about it in a Times of India article back in December I guess. The article stated that in preparation for a quarter and a century celebration of the grand WR headquarter building in 'January' the following year, the Western Railway would be undertaking restoration and painting works there. The Railway was to also open a new heritage gallery on the building's third floor, as an addition to the one on the ground floor. The article further went on, discussing and marveling at the building's architecture, quoting from the book 'Anchoring a City Line' By Rahul Mehrotra and Sharada Dwivedi. That book was published back in the year 2000, on occasion of the building's centenary. Well, it wasn't quite likely that I would be willing to miss this opportunity. I requested my mother regarding the same, and we planned to pay a visit in the third week of January.


Well, I was quite emotionally connected to this building. Back in Dec 2019, when I visited the CSMT Heritage Gully for my very first time, my actual destination was this. My Father, who accomapnied me there, thought I wished to visit there, while I was willing to visit the WR Heritage Gallery inside this building. While returning from the CSMT gallery with a cheerful mind, on my way to Churchgate, I saw that building, telling my father, that this was my actual destination. But, we couldn't find the entrance, and that chance went empty. I recollect myself just desperately willing to visit the WR Gallery, one reason being the presence of a model of an early BB&CI EMU train there. 

Last year, in May, I visited the Heritage Gully at CSMT again. Again I spent a while there all again, and after fulfilling my desires, again tried to get to the gallery at Churchgate. This time I reached all the way till the gate, only to be told by a security guard, that due to it being some special day, the gallery was closed. I remember returning from there with nothing, but a picture of the entrance plaque.

It was 7th of January in the morning, when my father informed me about a planned celebration for the commemoration of 125 years of the Western Railway headquarter building. And that was to be held for three consecutive days from 7th to 9th January. It was quite clear, that I was just going there. I quickly prepped up, taking with me some valuable items. Firstly, a cutout of the WR advert of the event, a book titled 'Anchoring a City Line', Rail historian Rajendra Aklekar's 'Halt Station India' and my folder of Rail research materials. Eventually I dropped the latter, to keep luggage light.

I left from Borivali by 11 or so. I took my 'much fond of which' window seat, and began my research. What research you might ask? Of any old relic might find on the tracks, throughout my nearly 1.5 hr journey to the rail terminus of Churchgate. I had just forgot to bring a notebook, and had to make-do with the notes app on my device. And relics came soon. Just after departing from Borivali, I spotted double headed rails. All throughout my journey, I looked keenly in search of any old remains. I spotted fences, bridges and abandoned platforms (near Grant Rd). 

I finally reached Churchgate by 12:30. There I clicked this image-

The Churchgate Station
I went to have some lunch at the nearby Stadium Restaurant, on the station's western side, and after that, marched my way to the eastern side. It was there, that I had my first glance at the Headquarter building. Needless to say, I glanced in awe, while still crossing the street.

After doing so, I entered through the gate, only to encounter the same issue again. The guards stopped us. The special exhibition was erected just on the left side, on the lawn, and yet the guards were saying it was not to start today, but tomorrow. Well, my father argued otherwise, since the advert in the newspaper certainly suggested otherwise as well. The reality was something like the exhibition was to be inaugurated today, but was to be open to public only tomorrow formally. My emotions were again down. I turned my head up in the south east direction, and looked at the magnificent headquarter building. I thought, as though I was have to satisfy myself with nothing but this.

But we weren't alone. One old aged couple too argued that the WR had clearly invited us to the event, and they had traveled a long distance to come celebrate the building'd 125th anniversary with WR. Well, eventually one employee of the railway arrived, and allowed us to enter the exhibition. 

The exhibition (I'm in the picture somewhere!)

On entering, we were greeted by a info-tunnel. Screens surrounded us all around, with a video on the Railway's history playing. After stepping inside, we were greeted by several info-cards on the walls. Now that I'm posting images of these, I would like to credit Western Railway for all the archival images coming henceforth.

The first info-card (Credit: Western Railway)

There were tons of images all around us in the first part.

An Image pillar (Credit: Western Railway)

Now, I won't be able to include all the images for obvious reasons, but trust me, there were a lot!

On going ahead, there was a VR desk, which I tried out; it was a 360 degree tour of certain spots in the building just close by. I was immersed in the VR experience for so long, that the person handling it had my chance was over! Just adjacent, was one sci-fi projector, which I would like you to check out on your own.

The "Sci-fi" Projector
Moving a bit ahead, was the most exciting part. It was the place I spent 2 hrs at that day. You might ask, isn't 2 hrs a bit too much to spend at one place in the entire exhibition. Clearly there was something that made me lose my sense of time. And that was this desk.

A BB&CI Bell

Information on 'Why bells?'

A Handheld Kerosene Lamp

A model of a WG Steam Loco

A Magneto Telephone
And, finally the reason for my standing there for 2hrs-
The Reason..
Well, actually it narrows down to two too odd looking black books. And actually I spent most of the time on the book low in the picture. And what were these books exactly? Any rail historian's most prized treasure.
The Treasure

These were two Magazines of the BB&CI Railway, dating 1923 and 1931. Actually there was also a timetable from 1960 kept in the middle, but trust me, I did not even open more than once. The former things were much more significant to me than the latter.
I'm an obedient kind of guy. I just can't do things without asking for permission sometimes. And this was one such time. The book was an archival copy, and I thought it wasn't meant to be opened, but rather just displayed there. I mean there was a barricade like thing in between me and the table. But this wasn't time to be the most obedient. And being a rail historian, I was pretty confident that I could handle a 100 year old treasure trove safely. But of course I had to ask permission first. I went on the other side of the exhibition, granted a permit from a somewhat confused person somehow affiliated with the railway I thought, and walked back to that spot. 
With a baited breath, I carefully opened the cover. I first tried the 1931 magazine. I was first met with some random text (Railways used to put tons of advertisement in publications), and didn't find much in terms of 'fun stuff'. All I found were Locomotive diagrams, a somewhat interesting economy scale (BB&CI's fun way of displaying expenditures and income), but nothing more. That was one observation I made of the 1931 book, after several readings; there was nothing much. So I tried my luck on the 1923 magazine. Again, nothing much at first, but interesting things came in soon. The book was divided into monthly sections, regarding to the happenings of each month. And along side carefully turning 100 yr old pages, I clicked pictures of things I found interesting. 
A Typical Month page..
(Credit: Western Railway)
The frequency of the lights there messed up some of my images, but I eventually realised that increasing brightness removes the bars of darkness in the pictures!
Well, I continued scrolling through so on, until my father called me. I was then introduced to another rail historian, someone who shared my interests. He was clicking pictures from a rare Western Railway book, and my father was helping him in the process. In our conversation, we discussed several things and he asked me several things as well, from, why Dadar West is called Dadar BB, and Dadar East, Dadar TT, to what the Salsette Trombay Railway was. It was an engaging discussion, that went on for quite some time. Later, I went back to my task of exploring my book.

In the book further ahead, there were some pretty rare images, like those of the Bassein Bridge, (significant to me for reasons I have mentioned ahead), some personal accounts, like one of a person's trip to Goa, some jokes, to name a few. I found another image of the Bassein Bridge,one I found especially amusing. I would really like to include it here-
An otherwise unsuspecting page...
(Credit: Western Railway)
What's special you may ask? Check the image caption. It rather 'dully' specifies the speed of the train, something that might feel like an unnecessary addition. But its like a giggle inducing moment for anyone who knew the problem of the then bridge. Read this digitized BB&CI Magazine 'Crossing the Rivers' of 1924, and refer to the Bassein Bridges section (pg.6). 
To give you a brief, if you travel over the Vasai Creek between Bhayandar and Naigaon stations and look in the west direction, you will find a rusted bridge there. This bridge was used from 1927 all the way till 1980s or 1990s. This bridge was originally constructed in 1864, when BB&CI first entered Bombay. With the turn of the century, the bridge was found weak to handle the increasing traffic loads of the increasing services. The bridge was strengthened, but this was just a temporary solution. Hence a new bridge was to be built, the work of which started in 1923, and finished by 27'. This is that rusted bridge we see today. Before this bridge was finished, the railway set up restrictions for train speeds. A speed limit of 15 mph for local trains, and 8 mph for long distance trains was set up. That is exactly what the picture hints at, and that is exactly the reason I smiled on seeing it.

More to be added soon!

Monday, January 1, 2024

That one time when Colaba had a Railway Station

 The Western Line. Begins from Churchgate, ends at Dahanu Rd. Of course there are intermediate local termini, like Dadar, Bandra, Borivali, Virar to name a few. These are stations with a 'make believe' dead end which the locals cannot go past. The locals complete their duty of transporting its longest accompanying passengers to its own destination, lets them deboard, and heads back to its origin station after a while waiting in front of that 'dead end'. Even Dahanu, the northern terminus, faces that situation, since the Indian Railway line extends much further than the suburban line. It is the southern terminus, Churchgate that gets that one unique honour. No rail line going past it. Here there is a real dead end! But that wasn't always the case. For, once the line went 2 km beyond it, all the way to Colaba! And Colaba maintained that honour for 57 years!

You may find that surprising, but its true. And the story of its existence, is amusing, and a pleasure to both read and narrate!

Lets get back to the mid 1860s. The Bombay, Baroda, and Central India Railway (BB&CIR) had just recently extended its line from Ahmedabad to Bombay in 1864. The tale of this happenstance is an interesting one in its own. (If you don't know, you may read this article I wrote last month-). But today, lets discuss the events that lay ahead. When the first train service began between Bombay and Ahmedabad from 28th November 1864, the train terminated at Grant Rd station. A local train service was introduced the following year on the 1st of November. This service ran from Grant Rd, to Bassein Rd. At the same time, several improvements were done to the intermediate stations along the suburban line. 

But, along with all this, one more project was being executed, undertaken by the Bombay Backbay Reclamation Company. It, as the name suggests, was assigned the task of Reclaiming a part of the Backbay (that body of water between Malabar Hill and Colaba). Why? After all, BB&CI had to extend its line into the heart of Bombay City, and then to the cotton hub of Colaba. And that heart was near the erstwhile fort of Bombay, close to today's Churchgate. Possible routes were proposed and debated upon for long. The line reached Grant Rd in 1864, but the path just ahead was still under discussion in 1863. One option, as suggested by Colonel P.T. French, the Chairman of BB&CIR himself, was to let the line pass through the regions of Sonapur, Girgaon, and the Esplanade. But Bombay's commissioner of Police, Charles Forjett soon made a report, highlighting the impracticality of the proposition. The issue lay in the fact that purchasing patches of land in the aforementioned areas would cost more than a quarter Million Pounds sterling, which was plain expensive, and hence, what the Railway Department refused to comply with. The Chairman then found to himself only one practical option, that was to reclaim a portion of the Backbay. And this the Railway Department found feasible.

Then there were more discussions, more protests, more letters; but the plan went ahead. The Backbay Reclamation Company began the first scheme of Backbay's reclamation history. The BB&CI too got the task of supplying the necessary ballast, with its ballast trains running from Santacruz. The scheme went ahead, but then came a shock. The American Civil War ended. 

With the Civil War's advent in 1861, the British cotton supply was in danger. The British started to look at other places to procure cotton for its industry. India was one such place. Now, railways had been introduced in Bombay, and it was a port city. The result was that, in the duration of the war, Bombay profited a heck of lot, and Bombay became a cotton hub as never before. But with the end of the war, ended the monopoly. Several companies were liquidated, and one of these was the reclamation company. This was in 1865. The Government took over the project, but the result was less grander than anticipated. Only a thin patch of land, just wide enough for the BB&CI to lay its line could be reclaimed.  The Bombay Backbay station was opened here by 1866, primarily to serve ballast trains bringing in supplies for the reclamation project. The Railway then started regular trains from the station by 1867, and then continued extending the line, reaching Churchgate by 1870. But as for the Reclamation project, for now at least, it was done and dusted.

Although Bombay could not get much extra space due to the cut shorted reclamation, BB&CIR had just gotten enough. It had now established a foothold in the city, and was ready to jumpstart. And so it did, albeit again with some difficulties!

The BB&CI was now quite close to Colaba, the cotton hub. It just had to get there. And so, it requested for an authorisation for extension. The Government of Bombay gave permission, but on one condition. The condition was that the company, in an event of further reclamation schemes, or public benefit undertakings in the region, would move, i.e clear this railway route till Colaba. This condition was agreed to, and then, the year being 1873, BB&CI had achieved its goal of establishing itself in Colaba. Passenger traffic from the station was commenced by October 1st, 1873, and finally one could catch a train at Colaba, and travel all the way till Ahmedabad! And besides this added luxury for the passengers, BB&CI could too benefit a ton from transporting cotton, with its line stretching 310 miles (quite exactly 500 km) to Ahmedabad. 

On the Suburban Line, by now there were 24 locals each day (8 Bandra, 3 Andheri, and 1 Virar). And Progress continued. By 1888, 9,865,000 people had used the service to their benefit, and after 4 years, there were 4 Virar, 1 Borivali, and 27 Bandra locals each way per day. 

But this surge in popularity came at a price. If the service receives demand, it ought to be expanded. Expansions were certainly done, but not all was achieved. One curious such problem occurred at the temporary Colaba station. About mid 1880s, the station handled 52 passenger trains every day, and due to this, there would remain no space for standing trains at the station. These could only be occupied at Grant Rd, and even this would mean three daily passenger trains to be brought back empty from the latter station to Colaba. On top of this, the Locomotive shed was at Parel, and hence Locomotives too had to run on this line to Colaba. And all this on just two tracks. The situation was a darn traffic mess! And the station too was quite cramped, which led to the following situation: It was often that on the arrival of a passenger/express train, that, soon after it would be shunted (taken away), to make space for an incoming local train. This would occur, even before the passengers of those long distance trains had the opportunity to take their luggage out!

Sure enough, came suggestions soon after. There were thoughts that the provision of additional sidings at Marine Lines and conversion of the station into a terminus for all long distance trains would curb the issue. The Government assigned a committee in 1888 to find solutions. The committee discouraged the aforementioned suggestion, for, this would mean consumption of the already limited space available for public recreation initiatives. The Committee hence suggested the expansion of the Colaba station, to cope with all the issues. 

BB&CIR was therefore provided a plot of land between Wodehouse Bridge, and the Lower Colaba Road. The Government sanctioned an amount of Rs.4,94,843 in April 1893, after plans and estimates for the station were submitted. And then came a magnificent station certainly ten fold grander than its predecessor. It was a new station, and this station was named Colaba Terminus, and it was opened to service on 7th April 1896. 

The station building was a piece of art. The façade of the station, made of stone, faced southward, and so did the station's entrance. The entrance was below a balcony, similar to that at Bandra Railway station, along with a porch for carriages. If we look at the building from the front, it was almost symmetrical, the symmetry being broken by one high tower with a pitched tiled roof on the left. Barring this, the building façade was symmetric along the balcony, there being three rectangular portions with a gable like top, the balcony being located in the central rectangle. Inside the building, were waiting rooms, an open ticket counter, and other offices. The principal columns were ornamented with iron work made from old rails. A brick wall sheltered the passengers on the Wodehouse Road side, from rains. The station was lightened with incandescent light bulbs, functioning throughout day and night. A footbridge was further constructed on the northern end of the platforms. The terminal station itself had three 500 ft (152 m) long platforms, hosting five, numbered-platforms. This was because the west-most platform hosted only one, while the other two hosted two numbered-platforms each. The yard of the station was also quite large, hosting two main carriage sidings, the West, and the East Carriage sidings. The East Carriage sidings themselves went a long way, forming a sort of a C-curve, with the southern part extended till the nearby docks. The yard further had a Station Cabin, some extra sidings, some lines assigned for Goods traffic, and most importantly, a Turntable. All the lines of the station yard, including the ones that catered to the platforms, eventually converged to just two lines, that arrived from Churchgate, one each for Down and Up lines.

Such a beauty was the new Colaba Terminus station. The station continued its service well throughout, even into the 1900s. Developments were soon to follow. Between the station and the nearby Wodehouse bridge, track circuiting was completed by 1913. In the 1910s, during a period of several station remodelling schemes, facilities at several stations were improved. Some stations covered under the schemes were- Borivali, Virar (1913), Grant Rd (1915), and Bandra, Mahim (1917,1920). Colaba's station too went under consideration, since the yard and the signalling equipment were inadequate to deal with the traffic. Keep in mind that crowds were growing profoundly in these regions, and also were the passengers, around this time. Hence, Colaba Terminus' remodeling scheme too was approved by 1920.

But another thing happened in 1920. And was quite in irony to the just mentioned development. The Bombay Government, that year, issued a notice to the Railway Company. That notice was an order to the BB&CI to relinquish its rail section, between Churchgate and Colaba, in order to remove obstacles in view of an upcoming second phase of Backbay Reclamation. And, as many authors like to point out, was on the very plot of land the government had itself reclaimed to make the rail extension to Colaba possible. And now, a department of just that government was asking to shelve that section out. 

Well, BB&CI had agreed to give away the reclaimed plot in case of such a project in future, all the way back in 1873, when it was to extend its line till here. No ifs, no buts, they had to give the land away. But it wasn't as easy as that. Colaba had been established as BB&CI Railway's terminal station. It couldn't just demolish it now and cede the land to the Government. It just had to first establish another Terminus.

Such a terminal was then planned near Bellasis Rd, and a new station was to be built there. Besides this main station, a suburban station was to be constructed just beside to provide ease of connectivity. This was to be the Bombay Central Station, or today's Mumbai Central. The Agent (General Manager) of BB&CI, Sir Ernest Jackson laid the foundation stone of the station on 11 March 1928, and the station was ready by 18 December 1930. For a moment, BB&CI had two grand Terminus stations!

Colaba Terminus' story was about to end. But the story didn't end that dull. When the BB&CI line was electrified, the first Electric Local train on the line ran from Colaba to Borivali on 5th January 1928. The same year, on 1 September 1928, the Frontier Mail was inaugurated from here. It would regularly depart from the Terminus throughout the station's remaining years, except during winter months, when it'd depart from the Bombay Port Trust Railway's Ballard Pier Mole Railway station. This train was reputed to be India's fastest, and among the most punctual trains. 

But that was more or less the ending, and its replacement had already been ready in December 1930. Its purpose was fulfilled, and so was its life. The last local train departed from the station, heading toward Bandra on 31st December, 1930. The station then closed for good, on the New year's Day of 1931.

Such was the tale of Bombay's once Southernmost station. Full of crises, but full of exciting times. In the end, Churchgate was made the Terminal again, as it was in 1870. This process was completed by 1933. Colaba just vanished in thin air, just out of public memory. Yet it served well, as BB&CI's most wonderful Terminal station, that too for 57 whole years.


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